I awoke to the usual Westfjords weather - low white and grey cloud, a slight drizzle, but at least no wind. I poured half of a pot of Skyr (pear-flavoured, also good) into an empty pot I'd kept as a bowl, and added some of the delicious hazelnut granola to each - perfectly decent breakfast, and a lot cheaper than what the hotel had on offer! I got my gear ready (waterproofs obviously packed) and set off just before 10am (these no-sunset days were really helping my sleep quota). The first stop was on the far side of the fjord, with a lovely view back towards the little town of Djúpavík - overpowered by the massive waterfall above it and the enormous old herring factory - and of course a wonderfully winding road heading off in front of me.
It felt quite eerie walking past the deserted buildings and heading off across a field where I knew I'd see no-one, but it wasn't exactly dangerous terrain, so I didn't feel nervous. I did, however, encounter lots of wet, bedraggled sheep, who would stop and stare at me intently until I moved away, which was a little unnerving.
I walked on for a bit as I could see a larger stack in the distance - almost at the point at which it looked as if I mightn't be able to go any further. I had looked into the possibility of hiking all the way round to the east side, but the map didn't make it clear if it was possible, and even if it was, I'd end up about 14km away from my car.
The last stack was very dark at the bottom, with what looked like a slice of basalt columns, lighter at the top. As I approached it started to spit - the damn rain back again! I looked back towards the jagged edges of Drangaskörð to find that they had completely disappeared and the cloud had come almost down to sea level to the north - just the outline of the hills in the distance was visible.
that mistake again...). I decided to head back, as it looked as if the beach came to an end past the big stack, and the clouds were definitely coming in lower - the rain wasn't going anywhere quickly. I took a few shots of the amazing seaweed - some of it pink with streaky flesh, some green. I did get the macro lens out, sheltering the gear under my body as I changed lenses. I was fascinated by the seaweed! The lens was a bit frustrating, as it's only a 1:2 macro, not a 1:1. I ended up putting on an extension tube too, but that still didn't get me quite the magnification I wanted.
|No idea what this is!!|
I stayed quite a while, relaxing with the rain tingling on my belly. When I was showered and dressed I then drove up to the end of the road (not much to see there) and then came back again - there was a nice stack with a very unpronouncable name on the beach.
My journey was also slowed by the usual few sheep that thought that the road made a good sleeping spot.
I also stopped to take a shot of the pool from the road - the other people must have gone in as soon as I left. You get a good view of the setting from the road above.
Just a little south of the hot pool I stopped again as I saw some nice rocks along the shore. The cloud seemed to be becoming a little more patchy and from time-to-time I was treated to a spot of sunlight, mostly in the distance. As I stopped the sun not only came out but there was a nice rainbow too. The pointy mountain in the distance was still mostly hidden.
The last stretch was lovely, watching the little village come into view - my welcoming home for the night. I stopped one last time at the end of the fjord - there was even a patch of blue sky in the distance, but otherwise the clouds were growing and looking more menacing.
I dumped my stuff in the room and headed straight back downstairs for dinner - I was starving! Soley was standing in the dining room in the downward dog position - I thought she was stretching, but no, she was just resting like that. Quite a character!
I treated myself to the lamb dish for dinner, and another of the Wee Heavies. The lamb - I was told - is reckoned to be the tastiest in the country, as the animals are free to wander and eat not just grass but seaweed too, which makes their meat more tasty. I must say, it was one of the most delicious chunks of lamb I'd ever tasted!
Click here for blog from Day 4 - Driving to Djúpavík